Finisterra rest day!

Today after a reasonable lye in (7.30am) we had a breakfast which was supplied by the albergue. Jess and Alex went straight to the beach so after we were ready myself and CJ went into the town to run some errands. After this we went and met them on the beach and had a sunbathe. Me and CJ also had a dip in the sea and i got to wear my swimming costume which I was told I may not need to bring. It was beautifully clear and blue and the sand was very soft and clear of rubbish! 

We then moved after a quick lunch to another bay which was nice. This one had deeper water so we went swimming! When it got too hot we headed back to the albergue and got showered. 

Tonight we are going to another bay to watch the sun set with a bunch of other pilgrims so that should be fun! 

Tomorrow we head back to Santiago and then fly on Friday! 

Finisterra day 4 - Cee to Finisterra (lighthouse) 17km

Today myself and CJ left the albergue later than the other two (who left at 5am) as we didn't want to walk on the dark for our last walk, especially as it has views of the sea etc. We ended up waking up at 6am and setting off at 7, however the sun was still not up fully and this was not helped by the low cloud which hung over Cee and as it turned out Finisterra too!
The walk began with a steep climb up to the tops of the hills behind Cee. Then it passes through woodland and eventually out of the mist Finisterra appeared.
We walked straight to the lighthouse which is the official end to the camino and has a 0.0km marker. The views were not as food as they could have been due to the weather but it was exciting to see nothing but sea ahead of you. I didn't feel like I thought I would though. It was strange as I felt happy that there was no more walking and a sense of relief that I had made it but also a kind of "oh...what now" feeling. I think perhaps a combination of homesickness and exhaustion.
We met the other two who were relaxing on a rock on an edge of the cliff (sounds more scary than it was). After quite a few cheesy pictures we collected our items together in one of the firepits and burn them in a traditional pilgrim ritual. I burned a pair of socks which I have worn away whilst on camino and the others burnt the hats that the lanzarotte men gave us to take to Santiago. It took a few attempts due to the gusts of wind but eventually they caught.
We then made it back down the long winding road back to the centre of Finisterra. Here we got our finistellas (certificate to show we walked the extra 87km) and then found a really nice albergue run by a lady called Alexandra.

The r has bunks but with bedding and a real Cotten towel!! We then got a really nice lunch where I had curried rice and vegetable dish and it was all fresh and flavorsome! After a nap and shower we then all walked around the town and had a quick dip in the sea - which is crystal clear and blue!
After another very tasty meal for dinner we headed back to the albergue (apart from CJ who went to watch the sunset at the lighthouse).

Finisterra day 3 - Maronas to Cee (31km)

Last night was a good nights sleep finally! And a good job too as we woke up at 4.30am to begin our long 31km walk to Cee.
As it was so early we begun in the pitch black and used our head torches until the sun started to appear at 6ish. The walk was again fairly hilly but not too bad. There were no cages or towns between Olveiroa (where we ate breakfast) and Cee as it is all through rolling hills with quite steep valleys so there was a lot of up and down! And we had no more rest stops!
The best part of this walk was the last 2 or 3k when the sea appears below the hills just in the distance. Despite the very steep downhill climb the sight of the sea is a great feeling! It signifies not only the end of a very long walk but the realization that you have walked all the way from France, through Spain and then to the coast! Tomorrow we shall just have 16km to go to the lighthouse where the official end of the camino is!

Cee is a lovely town with its own little beach and a harbor. Our albergue (albergue Finisterra) has bunks which look out onto the sea, you can hear the waves hitting the boats in the harbor. Myself and CJ then went and had a quick paddle in the sea and picked up a couple of shells. We then went back to 'collect' the others to go and get some dinner. We also had a quick mosey around the shops. I was naughty and bought a really nice notebook which looks like an old style leather bound book.

Finisterra day 2 - Nigreira to Maronas (21.4km)

Well. Last night music begun and it sounded as though it was right outside the window despite being a couple of streets away from our albergue! The live band played until 5.30am  and after no sleep we got up and begun our 21.4km day.
The walk was fairly hilly but not too bad. It didn't pass through many towns at all so the first possible cafe we stopped for a beverage. It is, in the book, supposed to be a 30k day today and John does it in 3 days but we want to do it on 4 so we cut it short. Tomorrow will though have to be a 30k day.
We ate at the albergue as there is literally nothing

Finisterra Day 1 - Santiago to Nigreira (22km)

Well last night we ended up at a restaurant called ´Tokio", DO NOT GO HERE! Firstly the waiter took only one persons drink order and then disappeared. Then he only took one persons food order and disappeared. After this, when paying, he took the money and disappeared. We were then expecting our change but he reapeared to clear other peoples tables and didnt even look like we had change on its way. We caught his attention and he had basically put our money away and forgotten and not bothered to even check the amount. (we wingled out €2 change which was probably a little more but thats their fault!).

Then we returned to the albergue and I got ready for bed as the others wrote their journals. Then, who else but Julia appeared! :O
We had lost her as she had continued on to finisterra and walked longer days than us so we thought we would never see her again! It was ´fate´as she hadnt planned on returning to Santiago at all and she ended up at the same albergue and even the same room as us!!! She is today on her way to Pamplona to run with the bulls so we all wish her luck! It was great to see her again and she waved us all off this morning and gave us all a gift (a little shell bracelet).

The walk today was not as bad as I was expecting as the big steep hill depicted in Johns book wasn´t as steep as shown. We set off at 5.30am and arrived at 10.30ish, so we then had the whole day to relax. I took a very quick shower as they have no doors, and then washed my clothes. I look forward very much to returning home and not having to do this!

We then walked into the town and there is a festival on today in Nigreira so we got to see some kind of parade. There was also a spanish jazz type band which was fun and they paraded up and down the streets a few times. There was also a traditional Spanish Pipe band who were also in traditional dress. This looked boiling as they were all black and covered head to toe in many layers of heavy embroided material. It was nice to see though and then we returned to relax some more at the albergue.

Santiago (Our First Rest Day)

Today we had a lye in! :O (Til 8.30am!)
We begun our day with breakfast and I was finally (for the first time in a month) able to have a CUP OF TEA! It was great!
We then went into the Cathedral once again and went to ´hug the apostle St.James´ which is a tradition of pilgrims from very early times. This was a weird moment but felt like we were completing the pilgrims traditions. We then went below the alter to see the tomb of St.James and there was a very beautiful silver coffin  which is eledgedly holding the bones of St.James. This is the orriginal purpose of the Camino de Santiago.
Then we went for a browse round the shops, it was nice to be relaxed about our day for a change. After a cheap lunch (ie. burger, fries and large coke for less than €5!) we went and got some frozen yoghurt (mmmm yum!) and went and sat in the Cathedral square again. Its lovely to watch pilgrims enter and all hug each other and take funny pictures in front of the imposing building!
Tomorrow we begin our walk to Finisterre which I am somewhat dreading as is rather hilly and apparently quite stenuous. Anyways, I shall also blog about this stretch too so keep checking :)

O Pedrouzo to Santiago! (20km)

Today was the walk to Santiago!
It felt like the camino was testing us to see if it could push us a little further as the walk was a little hillier than expected! We stopped 5km away from the cathedral at the top of a hill which had a statue on the top which depicted pilgrims entering the cathedral area.
We continued down hill and Santiago appeared in the distance. The walk into the old part of Santiago was actually not to bad (particularly compared to walking into Leon etc.).
When we arrived into the old part we all begun to feel a little strange, as though it wasnt really happening. However, as soon as we all entered the square with the cathedral we all became quite emotional. For me, this was because the walk has been very long and extremely difficult. The cathedral is beautiful and imposing and looks onto the Paradore (5* hotel branch used in the film, ´The Way´). After we all calmed down a little we just took our time taking in the atmosophere. Then we were aproached by a team of Dutch documentary makers who are making one on the Camino. We were asked some questions on our experience through the walk and so basically now we are FAMOUS! haha. We then saw Alasdair (apparently I have been spelling his name wrong) who we said goodbye and good luck too which was nice, he had even gotten a little teary. awww
We then entered the cathedral and had a quick look around. It is HUGE and very beautiful inside, the alter area particularly!
We then went to the Pilgrims office to collect our Compostellas (official certification of the walk). The que was at least an hours wait but it was well worth it to get something physical for the whole month of walking we have done. After this we attended the hour long Pilgrims mass at 12 noon in the cathedral. This was nice as despite it all being in Spanish, one of the nuns attempted to teach us snippets of songs so we could join in. It was nice apart from we didnt get seats and were sat on the floor, and for those who are unaware of Catholic services, they involve alot of standing up!
We then bumped into Jeanette and Larry once again  and we all took photographs and planned to meet up for the evening mass ( 7pm ) to see the ´Botafumeiro´(giant insence burner which swings across the cathedral above pilgrims heads).
We then went and found our hostel for the next 2 nights which is called ´Roots and Boots´. It was advertised to be better than it actually is but it is a bed none the less. Not greatly recommended but we dont mind too much. After getting changed and showered we left to get a drink in one of the cafe´s. We had a quick look around the shops and found out where the restaurants and cafes were and then went to get a good seat at the cathedral. The botafumeiro is something which has been done for pilgrims (to rid them of disease and stench) for over 800 years and it was quite an impressive sight!
After the mass we went and got some Sangria which was delicious and had some dinner. This was expensive but was also sort of celebratory dinner so hey ho!
After we went to see the cathedral at night and it looked beautiful still and there was a Spanish band playing under some of the arches across from the cathedral! This was awesome as we all danced a little and then said a sad goodbye to Jeanette and Larry.
A very good first day in Santiago!!

Arzua to O Pedrouzo (20k)

Today we left once again in the early hours leaving with headtorches and made our way through woodland. The walk was a short one today but we were on a mission to get to the albergue before we were left with no where to sleep so we took no breaks.
The walk was mainly through woodland and included a few ups and downs but after the first little part of the walk it seemed to flatten a little. I walked majoritly alone today as the others were 10x the speed I was. I think I´m just starting to feel really tired and weary. This was not helped by sleeping in a room with eight or so Spanish old men who all snored and smelt very very badly of B.O! Therefore I woke up at 3am and didnt really go back to sleep until CJ nudged me at 4.45am. So I plugged into my ipod to try and keep my legs moving to a constant beat which did help!
We arrived at the albergue ( 2nd people there!) at 10.15am so we had to then wait until 12 noon when they opened. This wasnt the smoothest arrivals as the others had carried on past the town and I had seen people turning off towards some buildings. I had to therefore continue to catch them up and when I did they shouted we had gone wrong. :p
The albergue is really nice though. Our bunks are in a mini pod of 2 bunks and next to a floor to ceiling indoor garden type thing. The albergue also plays really nice relaxing music and is very quiet and modern. So hopefully tonight we will get some good sleep - particularly as its SANTIAGO TOMORROW!

Palas de Rei to Arzua (25.4km)

Today we set off fairly early so we could attempt at beating the crowds to the albergues! Todays walk I spent with CJ and we ended up discussing how we feel we have changed or improved in character or just in general from the camino experience. It was quite interesting to think about it deeply like that.
The walk was fairly up and down today and there was no mist so was also quite hot. We ended up meeting Alister whilst on route who gave us some helpful information about reserving and booking for santiago and finisterre. He also helped us book four beds in Arzua at a nice hostel so that was good of him. We could also then enjoy and relax a bit more on the rest of the walk.

When we arrived at the albergue we decided to book an albergue for tomorrow and for two nights in Santiago. However, tomorrow all albergues are full so we are going to set off early again and race for beds at the municipal. But we were able to book four beds in Santiago for €15 per person per night so not too bad. I am however short on money so am currently on the fence about walking to Finisterre with the other girls as this would be considerably cheaper than a hotel, its just whether I can physically and mentally walk any more!!

Only 2 more walks! ....

Portomarin to Palas de Rei (28k)

Today we set off at around 6am and begun our walk once again in thick mist so the views were minimal until the sun managed to burn through later that day. The walk was uneventful but pleasant enough. I walked on my own at the back of the group (as per usual) and listened to my ipod which was a nice change.

We ended up walking past Palas de Rei´s main town as ALL albergues were full by 11.30am! :O We ended up another 3.5km away to the next albergue in a very small town and took the last 4 beds there! We met a Spanish man whos a teacher walking from Sarria to Santiago with his mother. He offered to ring ahead to the next town to book or reserve four beds for tomorrow which was nice. However, when we rung they were all full too so now we have to rush for a bed. The trail has definitely become very vert busy and somewhat hectic!

3 more walks....

Sarria to Portomarin (22k)

Today we set off in the dark, around 6am. The walk itself was okay and copuld have had nice views however low misty cloud covered everything in sight. This was good as it was therefore cool and it did give it a somewhat spooky atmosphere.
It was slightly uphill but not too bad - a fairly simple walk.
We arrived out of the mist at 11.30am in Portomarin. We then had to que until 1 when the municipal albergue opened. DO NOT STAY HERE!
The room is cramped and crammed with bunks and its stuffy and boiling hot! The showers also have no curtains or doors so Jess was the only victim to the showers. There are also only two toilets! To make things worse we are in the room with several teenage spanish school groups so woo! :l
The kitchen also has no cutlery or pans or even a fridge so is pretty useless! Needless to say our aim for this afternoon is to spend as little time in this albergue as possible!

We spent the whole afternoon sat in front of the cafes and bars and then we met Jenette and Larry (the father daughter couple from southern america somewhere). We ended up having dinner with them which was nice! We also so a traditional traditional parade for the changing of either a saint or the virgin mary (we dont know which). They had laid down grasses to form a carpet leading through the streets up until the church door. There was then a parade with a folk band and men, women and children wearing traditional dress.

I am now writing this (on my phone until we have internet ) in the albergue. I think this is the worse one yet. Big NO NO!

However, 4 walks to go....

Triacastela to Sarria (18.7k)

Today we set off at 6.30am ish after a good nights rest. The walk today began with a hill. I did lose the others in front but I was happy keeping my slower and steady pace. The views from the tops were good and there were low cloud covering the bottom of the hilltops. The downhill part of the walk was quite sore for the knees but the terrain balanced between flat and the steep decents.
I finally found the other three girls at a cafe just outside of Sarria. After a nice sit down and a cold drink it wasnt too long a walk until we reached the centre of Sarria.
Sarria is the 100km mark in which people are required to walk to attain their certificate at Santiago so the amount of pilgrims is now bound to increase alot!
We found an albergue with 4 availiable beds after being turned away once which was a scary thought. We have our own room which looks out onto the church bell tower and the mountains behind. There is also a roof top patio just next to our room so all is quite lovely!
For dinner we will be eating at the albergue which offers a good looking pilgrims menu for €9.

5 walks to go....

La Faba to Triacastela (26k)

Before this walk : 96.4miles (155.2km) to Santiago!!

We woke up very early this morning at 4.45am and set off as soon as we were ready. It begun with a steep climb until we reached a town on the very tops where there is the oldest church on the camino (9th century).It was nice to set off so early as we could see the stars when we begun and then from the top watched the sun rise. In this town on the tops there is also a bust of a man who popularised the camino and created the yellow arrows of which pilgrims follow trustingly!
We continued and it became clear that John (the author of our guide book) had not been completley honest with us! The book clearly indicates a flat walk once you have reached the tops, however this is a LIE!
After some very steep climbs once again (thanks John!) we paused at a cafe for a beverage and watched as other pilgrims panted their way up the hill. After this it did flatten out for a little while and then the decent began. It was painful on the knees but not too bad. We had a lunch stop on the way down too. We arrived in ´three castles´ (none of which remain) at 1pm and checked in to a private albergue so to avoid the masses at the municipal.
For dinner we cooked our speciality of pesto pasta with chickpeas, tomatoes, corn, pepper and such. It was yummy but now I´m very very very full!
We have now just 6 walks left!!

Villafranca to La Faba (25k)

Today we got up a little earlier as todays walk is a planned 30k, however we´re only walking 25k as it involves two very steep climbs up onto the tops of the Leon Mountains. We took the ´pradela´ route which involves a steep climb up 400metres and then down and then through some small towns and villages. Then another steep and strenuous climb up 700metres (however by stopping earlier we just climbed 300sh metres). The views from the tops of the montains were lovely however the camera coldnt take a god enough picture!
One point as we got closer to the top of the first hill I was on my own (as per usual) a I thought I could hear something or someone behind me but no one was there. It was quite creepy however as I told CJ who´d waiting for me nearer the top, it wasnt a pilgrim making these strange sounds but me, wheezing! hahahaha
Must be something left over from the chest infection.
At the top and on our way down we breifly walked through some woods and we bumped into an old spanish lady in headscarf, red cardigan and matching red wellies. She talked to the US girls as we walked for a few minutes. Apparently she´d asked Alex if she had a boyfriend, and when Alex responded no she suggested that she pray for one in Santiago!! haha
After our usual lunch stop (at 10am) we continued and headed for the final hill. For this I plugged into my ipod and listened to some dramatic and intense music to get me to the top. At La Faba we decided to stop and save the rest of the climb for the morning when it would be cooler as we feel as though we have lost 10 stone from sweating!  
The albergue here is nice and has little pods of four bunks. They offered us fresh handpicked cherries and sliced apple when we arrived.
For dinner we went to the restaurant (and bar - the only thing in the town) and had a good meal. Afterwards we came back and Jenette suprised us! Its so good to see a familiar face as the camino has suddenly and dramatically gotten really busy and we dont recognise anyone! She told us she´d be getting to Santiago on Thursday (the same day as us) so we can meet for a celebratory drink!  Yay!!

Ponferrada to Villafranca (25k)

For todays walk we woke at 5.30 and set off through the streets of Ponferrada at 6.30ish. The beginning of the walk confused me alot in terms of direction as at points I thought we were walking back on ourselves.

However, after we walked up further into the mountains the scenery became better however the sun was strong and very hot today! Walking through the vine yards andf going up and down steep hills was hard work but eventually Villafranca appeared in the valley.

The albergue we chose was on the other side of town called ´de la piedra´. It is really nice and is built into a cliff face. We have basically our own room which has a mini balcony looking out onto the river and Street. The shower is also AWESOME. It had a huge shower head and then little mini shower jets on the side.  It is a very nice albergue indeed! (It also had a kitchen which I think we´re making use of for tea).

Foncebadon to Ponferrada (28k)

Today we woke at 5am and it was still pitch black outside. We bugun walking at 5.30 still in the darkness until we got to the cross on the top of one of the peaks. This is a famous landmark to the camino in which you walk up the pile of stones passed pilgrims have thrown beneath the cross andd add your own stone which has some personal meaning behind it. On the cross there were also pictures of loved ones and tributes in memorium. It was very special. We also watched the sun rise from here and took some pictures as we ate our breakfast.
We then continued further into the mountains which at some points only the tops were visible. The valleys had dissapeared beneath cloud and it looked like we had reached the end of the world. It was very atmospheric!
We paused once at a little shop and had a quick drink. We continued and reminiscent and thoughtful particularly of the first week which I had found to be the most difficult both physically and mentally. (I also apologised and thanked CJ who had many times stuck at the back withg me and kept me going!).
We ended up walking 28k today as we continued a little further (6k) into the city of Ponferrada. This isnt a beautiful city but it does mean we cut tomorrows 30k day down by 6k and get to miss out a little more pavement walking.
The albergue isnt noted in our book but was easily found and for a donative Price. I payed 3 euro and then we had pasta pesto for tea (finally as Jess has been craving it since week 1) and this only cost us 2 euro each! :O

Astorga to Foncebadon (26k)

Today we woke at 6.15 and got ready. Todays walk is a 21.4k walk and was a little more scenic particularly towards the end of the walk. We paused for breakfast at a town 5k in and had an overpriced banana and some banana bread which was good but this on the next leg of the walk played up with my already dodgy stomach so I was behind the crew for the majority of the day.
Then we stopped at Rabanal whichy is supposed to be the final stop for the day however we decided to continue a further 5k up into the mountains to a village called Foncebadon.
The views from here are beautiful and you can see for miles. The albergue we are staying in hadnt enough bunks but they offered us a private room which sleeps four so once again we have our own space which is nice.
For dinner we ate at the albergue in the comunal meal. This is where the albergue volunteers/owners cook the meal for all the pilgrims (for a price of course). We had paella which was really really good and salad. Also little platters of cheese and chorizo were put on the tables. Then we had ice cream for dessert. It was delicious and kind to my stomach so that was good. Was good to finally have some real spanish food for once!
Now off to bed as theyre planning a early 5am wake up.

Villar de Mazarife to Astorga 30k (20k for me)

Well...
Last night myself and CJ got struck with food poisoning. We think this is due to some bad water from a basement bathroom in the hotel that CJ and Alex stayed in the other night as I had taken a couple of sips from her camel-pack thing. Anyway, it wasn´t therefore a great night as we had temperatures and I kept needing to throw up everrytime I was close to being asleep. We therefore missed tea and typically it was apparently one of the best meals yet. A boy from California named Michael cooked and he hadf been tutored by a top chef in Norway or something.
This morning I still felt very ill but we decided to get as much done as possible. Today was a 30k day and we passed through quite a few towns and villages. Before our lunch stop, I had had enough and literally couldn´t walk anymore. Thankfully one lady in the bar we stopped at spoke fluent spanish and phoned a taxi to take me the last 10k to Astorga. The taxi was expensive (€18) but it was worth it. I was also to get 3 hours sleep before everyone else turned up. Apparently the last section was hillier than was shown in the book and wasn´t fun!
I then had aq good shower and managed to wash my evening clothes which I had also been sick on (sorry for the details).
The albergue here is called St.Javier and is really nice from what little I have seen of it.